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Title : The Magic of the Arctic Lights
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The Magic of the Arctic Lights

[Guest Post by Mohan Banerji in the Arctic] We jetted off from Gatwick Airport for Tromso, the ‘Gateway to the Arctic’ on board Germania Airlines. This was the start of our six-day holiday, set completely within the Arctic Circle for the best chance to catch the Northern Lights. The Arctic. In the winter! It would be frrrr-ee-zzzing cold. Were we mad? No, but we were well prepared. In the weeks leading up to our departure, we had researched and bought all the essentials (or so we thought) for the trip ... boots, jackets, thermals, gloves, scarves ... we had it all.



After a short flight we arrived in Tromso to find it covered in white snow. A magical winter wonderland, albeit a bit slippery underfoot. Before long, we were at the dock and we got the first glimpse of our home for the next four days – Hurtigruten’s the MS Nordkapp.

Our four days at sea, sailing from from Tromso to Kirkenes and back, took in Skjervoy, Hammerfest, Honningsvag, Vardo, and Kirkenes amongst others. It was an absolute delight to sail in and out of these scenic places with their colourfully painted, quaint houses – instead of the vast stretches of open water that one normally associates with most cruises.

On a cruise within the Arctic Circle, there was very little chance of finding anyone applying sun cream for a dip in the pool or dancing a conga outdoors. This is not to say that there was nothing to do. Each day, you could choose from: tastings of local specialities, exciting excursions like snowmobiling, and dog sledging, or if you preferred, just relaxing and enjoying the view of the ever-changing scenery; or listening to talks on fishing traditions, polar history, flora and fauna, glaciology, and even on polar bears (or the lack of them). Thanks to climate change, there is no permanent ice in the area anymore. No permanent ice, no seals. No seals, no polar bears. Simple!

 
One of the highlights of the trip was the visit to the Snow Hotel at Kirkenes. Did you know that it is built from 15 tonnes of real snow and ice, and is only open from December to the end of March? Each room is 5m in diameter and themed to reflect Arctic culture or nature. The solid ice bar is surrounded by intricate ice sculptures, carved by Chinese ice craftsmen, flown in each November to create the hotel.

As we sailed further north, one could sense a change in the atmosphere. The sea became calmer and darker, the air crisper and cleaner, until all hell broke loose! During our last night on board, the weather worsened. Not the best of nights for many a passenger on board ... round and round, and up and down we go again (you get the gist)!

 

We ended our holiday with two nights in Tromso. Did you know it served as the capital of Norway for a few weeks during the Second World War?

Tromso, today, is the where the world’s northernmost university is located. In the past, however, it was the starting point for many Arctic expeditions, including those led by Roald Amundsen.

The ultimate highlight, without doubt, was witnessing the Aurora Borealis, more commonly known as the Northern Lights. Curtains of light ... dancing and swirling across the night sky. We got a sore neck, looking up at the sky ... in the howling wind and freezing cold (but a hot chocolate later made it all better). Truly magical experience. Certainly unforgettable!

Mohan Banerji is a relative newcomer to urban sketching. A member of the London Urban Sketchers, Mohan is often to be found acting, travelling or gardening. Despite having no formal art education, Mohan loves playing with watercolours, acrylics, pastels and mixed media. You can see more of his work on Instagram @mohanbanerji

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