Sketching in the Southest City of Chile: Punta Arenas

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Title : Sketching in the Southest City of Chile: Punta Arenas
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Sketching in the Southest City of Chile: Punta Arenas


[By Erika Brandner in Punta Arenas, Chile]

My sketchbook took me a while ago to the port city of Punta Arenas, capital of the 12th Region of Magallanes and Antártica Chilean Region. It is the largest southeast city of the chilean Patagonia. It is located in Brunswick Peninsula about 1500 km from Antarctica and just between two fresh water reserves in the world: Antarctica and Southern Ice Fields. 

Punta Arenas was founded at the end of the 19th century, when the entire population of Bulnes Fort settled there due to its better weather and water supply conditions. The area was called “Sandy Point” and from there it derives to its  current Spanish name of PUNTA ARENAS.

EUROPEAN IMMIGRATION
At the end of the 19th century and early 20th century, the Strait of Magellan had great importance because it was the only crossing between Atlantic and Pacific oceans. A large wave of European immigrants settled there attracted by the gold rush of the 1890´s or fleeing from the First World War. A great number of Croats arrived. But also many Spanish and English and to a lesser extent Italians, Germans, French and Swiss. It also saw the arrival of many "Chilotes", chileans from Chiloe   Island,  resorted to work primarily in the sheep shearing. When you walk through Punta Arenas you notice such immigration mainly in the architecture of the center, characterized by several buildings of great size and palatial, neo-classic style and with wide wooded streets.
Punta Arenas - central street with clock sign

One of the main attractions of the city is its cemetery and of course its monumental gate. Funded by the wealthy and influential Sara Braun. It is said that she put a condition for this funding: that once their remains enter through the gate of the central nave, it should be definitively closed. The story has not been confirmed by historians, but it is certain that since then the main door has not been used. 
Walking through the cemetery avenues the monumental mausoleums of large families stand out for their design and wealth. And distinctive are the topiary style pruned Canadian cypresses…another example of European influence.

The cemetery of Punta Arenas

PUNTA ARENAS MAIN SQUARE: 
Called "Plaza Muñoz Gamero" in honor of the governor that made the first map of the city. Like many other main squares, many important buildings such as the Cathedral, the governors house, the palaces of influential neighbors and their companie buildings, banks and hotels were build around it.

Muñoz Gamero main square of Punta Arenas - View from Hotel Cabo de Hornos


SARA BRAUN´S PALACE:
There is no doubt that Sara Braun´s palace is the most impressive building around the square. It was designed by the french architect Numa Mayer in neoclassical style but it is hard to identify it as such because of the exuberant and generous ornament. A highlight is its winter garden in a metallic structure. At the time she built it, Sara Braun Hamburgers was already a widow. Her former man was the wealthy Portuguese businessman José Nogueira, who cultivated his fortune thanks to shipping activities, hunting of marine wolves and sheep ranchs. He was founder of the famous "Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego". Currently, the palace is occupied by a hotel, as well as being the “Club de la Union” of Punta Arenas.

Sara Braun´s Palace in Punta Arenas


JOSE MENENDEZ RESIDENCE “KING OF THE PATAGONIA”
Near Sara Braun´s palace is another palace that captured my attention: Jose Menendez residence, actually the Military Officers Club of Punta Arenas. I draw it only for historical reasons but with a deep feeling of anger and sadness. I knew that ranch activity had been key in the extinction of the natives from the place, but I got more valuable additional information at the tourist office located in the same square. I learned that Jose Menendez, called the “King of Patagonia” was a spaniard that built one of the largest fortunes of the region through the hunting of wolves, the trafficking of wild skins and feathers of the natives Tehuelches, import and export trade with Europe, shipping industry and ranch activities. And it was this last productivity branch the cause of the dead of the natives. He let his ranches expand so much that they occupied the ancestral lands of the Selknam or "Onas" ins spanish: the indigenous people of Fire Land Island, who lived from the  hunting of the guanaco. With the ranch activity, no more guanacos could be find so the indians began to hunt sheeps.  And this was something Menendez and his partners of the "Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego" wouldn´t allow so they prompted aggressive and deadly practices against them, known as the “Selknam Genocide”. There was a Salesian mission in Dawson Island that received Indians but all of them also died, decimated by the diseases that they acquired within the religious precinct. On this dark subject, I recommend a book: "El Corazón a Contraluz", from Patricio Manns.

Residence of Jose Menendez "King of Patagonia" in Punta Arenas 


But not only the Selknam disappeared. The great majority of the natives of the place are now extinct. However it is curious that the more famous rite in the Main Square of Punta Arenas handles around an Indian: in the middle of the square is a sculpture from artist William Cordova, made in cast bronze that pays tribute to the heroic deeds of Ferdinand Magellan navigator that also recalls the ethnic groups from the southern lands. Tragicomic because the necessary funds were given in Jose Menendez testament...did he know that in future no one would give attention to the figure of Magellan and the star would be an indian and rather his foot? Because it is said that those who kiss the foot of the Indian, Return to Punta Arenas. It is also said that it good luck and you may be asked to intercede in any favor you ask God and at least you will gain resistance to cold....well. I didn't kiss the foot of the Indian. But my personal rite was to sketch it:

The day I draw in Punta Arenas was a coldy day. I was sitting in the middle of the sidewalk. And as usual, locals came to watch. And in this case they were very interesting locals: a couple of carabineros  (Chilean police), with a hat that took my whole attention because it is unique for the soothest cities: the Chawka, a skin hat very suitable for the cold and snow. And I had to draw it ☺

“Carabinero” of Punta Arenas with Chawka – Sketched by Erika Brandner




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