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Title : Looking at Porto (II) - Up to the center
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Looking at Porto (II) - Up to the center

[By Paulo Mendes, Symposium Correspondent, in Porto] One of the first things you will notice in Porto is that the city is everything but flat. The Symposium place being close to the river means you have to go up the street towards anywhere that isn't at the same level. The good news is that nothing is too far, and there's plenty to sketch on the way.

As told in my latest post, the Infante area takes its name from the nearby square pictured above: The Infante Dom Henrique square, named after Prince Henry the Navigator, who was born in Porto and whose statue can be seen in the middle of the garden. To the left is the apse of the São Francisco Convent church, the convent itself having disappeared in the19th century to make room for the Palácio da Bolsa, former Stock Exchange Palace and currently the headquarters of Porto Commercial Association, deserving a visit for its magnificent interiors. The red iron building behind the statue, formerly a market, is now a concert venue

From the Infante square, two parallel streets climb until São Bento station: One of them is Mouzinho da Silveira. My sketch, made while taking shelter from the rain, doesn't make justice to its colorful and elegant buildings, some of them currently being restored. They provide an amazing variety of perspectives and compositions for the delight of old architecture sketchers. Put yourself in any corner, look around and see for yourself.

The other one, Flores street, is narrower, older and less steep. It was once the city's main and most prestigious commercial artery, many of that splendor still being visible in several storefronts. After being pedestrianized, it became one of the busiest and animated streets for its shops and cafes, street vendors, artists and musicians.

Take Flores street if you like to sketch people, or Mouzinho da Silveira if you like to sketch architecture. Or take one for each direction, something I always do.

Both streets will end up at Almeida Garrett square, just in front of São Bento station, known for its gorgeous hall covered with artistic ceramic tiles, not at all to be missed. The square itself is a must for sketchers for its bustle and architectural diversity, as you will see after an overlook from the station elevated entrance.

This station is currently used only by suburban and a few regional trains. If you're arriving to Porto on a long distance train, your journey will end in more distant Campanhã station. From there, just change to one of the many trains to São Bento, a short ride with scenic glimpses of the dramatic Douro cliffs between tunnels.

São Bento station is very close to Liberdade square and Aliados avenue, Porto's most central point, with the City Hall on the top. This is where people gather for celebrations, demos or festivities, or, like today, to watch a football match in a giant screen. It's the true heart of the city.

The climb doesn't end necessarily here, as you still can go further up: To the right, into Batalha square and the busy commercial Santa Catarina street. To the left, the Clérigos and Carmo area. How about showing a bit of both on my next couple of posts?

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