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Title : Looking at Porto (IV) - Batalha and Santa Catarina
link : Looking at Porto (IV) - Batalha and Santa Catarina

Looking at Porto (IV) - Batalha and Santa Catarina

[By Paulo Mendes, Symposium Correspondent, in Porto] From Praça da Liberdade, where I left you standing on my second post, we went up to explore the Clérigos and Carmo. Now it's time to take the opposite direction by climbing the 31 de Janeiro street. It will take us to the busy areas of Batalha and Santa Catarina.

The beautiful tiled church of Santo Ildefonso stands at the top of this steep and old street; To the right is the Batalha square. To the left is Santa Catarina street. We shall start with Batalha, but before don't forget to turn back and enjoy the amazing rollercoaster view of Clérigos tower and street from this point.

The “L” shaped Batalha square offers many views for great sketches, with the above mentioned church at one end, and the São João National Theatreat the other, half of this last we see peeking behind the buildings at right. With lots of seats and pleasant tree shades, this is a square that promotes conviviality, always full with local people, tourists from the surrounding hotels, and immigrants from the multicultural neighborhood on the nearby streets like the one at right, which also connects to São Bento station through a picturesque set of old winding narrow streets with small shops.

The tram line 22 will follow alongside the theatre to end a few meters ahead, near the upper station of the Guindais funicular, a fast connection back down to the typical riverside Ribeira.

Another way to access this square from São Bento station is via the steep Madeira street. It offers a great view of the station, the Clérigos tower at the bottom, and the old surrounding roofs. In a sunny day, the afternoon backlight provides great compositions. You can seat on the stairs while sketching and resting your legs.

Santa Catarina is the busiest street in Porto and the main commercial area; All the best known chain stores are here, as well as many local others. “It's a shoe paradise”, I've heard from an excited American talking on the phone. It's also the place of the famous Majestic Cafe, known for its gorgeous art-nouveau interior, its entrance seen here behind the parasols. Constantly roamed by a multitude of people, this busy street is a place of election for many street artisans and musicians like the lovely Patrícia, a highly talented concertina player who made my sketching job so much more pleasant!

The beautifully tiled Capela das Almas, literally Chapel of Souls, probably the most photographed in the city, is another landmark in this street. A curiosity (and a bit of a spoiler...) about the tiles is that despite their old look, they actually date from 1927. The old typical and battered Bolhão market is just a few steps away, but unfortunately you won't be able to visit as it closed down for a 2-year major renewal.

On my next post we shall go back to the riverside and old historical quarters; How about crossing the bridge?

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