Title : Looking at Porto (VI) - Around the Cathedral
link : Looking at Porto (VI) - Around the Cathedral
Looking at Porto (VI) - Around the Cathedral
[By Paulo Mendes, Symposium Correspondent, in Porto] For any visitor, be it a sketcher or a simple tourist, it is almost mandatory to visit the Cathedral and its surroundings. This imposing monument stands on the top of a hill and is clearly visible and easily reachable from São Bento station. Once there, you can also tour around some of the city's oldest streets, many of them winding down to the river or getting there through countless patios and stairways, but not without delighting your first with some amazing views. This venerable historical quarter is, after all, the birthplace of the “Very Noble, Loyal and Undefeated City of Porto”.
The Cathedral, simply known as “Sé”, was built between the 12th and 13th century, with many subsequent interventions. Although possible, the interior may be scarce of luminosity for a sketch, but the beautiful gothic cloister with its 18th century baroque tiles can be a good alternative. The frontal square, always busy with tourists, is by no means as old as the cathedral, as it was part of a 1940's monument reconstruction plan under the Salazar dictatorship that involved the sacrifice of a few medieval blocks. The pillory in the center, despite its old look, was also part of that plan.
To enjoy a magnificent view, you won't need anything but turning around and see the old city cascading between the jesuit São Lourenço, best known as “Grilos” church at left, and some of the city's oldest houses at right. But with such scenery you may definitely be tempted to walk down for a closer look. In front of the church, a few meters below, the Colégio square is also remarquable and well worth of sketchbook page, just as the church itself. And if you're enthusiastic about sacred art and archaeology, there's an enclosed museum.
In a variety of shapes and colors, decorated with countless planters, the old houses in the envolving narrow streets will make you wonder if you are still in Porto or suddenly leaped into some village in the countryside.
To the right side of the Grilos church you will find one of Porto's most amazing viewpoints. I'm never tired of this view and this was not the first nor will be the last time I've sketched it. The ocean of roofs with their typical skylights, the old building chaos, the church towers, the palaces, even the invasive yellow cranes, something we can't escape these days, will keep any sketcher busy for many hours. And the sketch above just shows the part that could fit in my double page!
On my next post I was thinking to show you a different path to go up to the center from the Symposium hub, with another interesting couple of viewpoints on the way.
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