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Title : Looking at Porto (VII) - Up to the center: A narrower path
link : Looking at Porto (VII) - Up to the center: A narrower path

Looking at Porto (VII) - Up to the center: A narrower path

[By Paulo Mendes, Symposium Correspondent, in Porto] 

As previously written in my second post, you will always have to go up the street to reach the city center from the Symposium hub in Alfândega. I showed then the best known traject to get there, via Infante and São Bento station, but actually there are some other ways: From Miragaia, just across the street from the Symp, a few steep and narrow old streets can be an alternative, and actually in less time, if your legs can handle the climb. Unable to show you all, I thought we could at least explore one of the most interesting.

In Miragaia, you will find easily a pretty church standing among the colorful old houses: The São Pedro de Miragaia church.To the right, Tomás Gonzaga street will take you up until São João Novo square.

The small square of São João Novo has to show the beautiful yet sadly abandoned São João Novo palace, not visible from my angle in this sketch, an interesting set of old worn houses and finally the Convent and church of São João Novo. The convent is nowadays a court, and the church is being restored, its beautiful front covered with scaffolding. However, you still can visit - and sketch - the equally beautiful interior.

A few meters up to the left, take the picturesque Taipas street. It's a steep lively artery with plenty of character and old Porto atmosphere. It will take you straight to the Cordoaria and Clérigos central area, but doing so you would miss two of the best views in the city, one to the right and other to the left. Let's turn right first, to a street between the abandoned Leite Pereira manor house, in the center of this sketch, and the yellow building just after it.

Rua de São Miguel is another old and picturesque old street. Its slightly curved traject ending at the doorstep ot Nossa Senhora da Vitóriachurch, makes it hard to resist for a sketcher. Needless to say that the church, as all baroque churches in Porto, deserves an attentive visit. Once there, you can turn left and proceed towards Clérigos by São Bento da Vitória street – with another remarquable set of old houses and a big monastery to catch your attention – but we shall turn right instead.

The Vitória viewpoint is somewhat abandoned and slovenly, but you go there for the amazing view: The Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace, the Grilos church and the Luiz I bridge dominate over the built complexity of the old city. It's basically the opposite view to the one shown in the last sketch of my previous post, although from a slightly higher point.

Now back to the Taipas street: To the left from the sketcher's position, the Passeio das Virtudes, or Virtudes Promenade, offers another great view to be admired, in this case downstream with the elegant Arrábida bridge on the way. This lovely place is very popular for its freshness and convivial atmosphere, especially at the end of the day when lots of people gather to relax and watch the sunset. From here, you can also easily go back down to Alfândega and the Symposium.

From Vitória or from Virtudes, a few more steps will finally take you to the city centre near the Clérigos area. You can rest at the Amor de Perdição square, named after a romance - “Doomed Love” in English - by 19th century writer Camilo Castelo Branco, who spent some  incarceration time in the big building at right, formerly a prison and today the Portuguese Center of Photography. A photo exhibition from Frida Kahlo Museum archives, not to be missed, is currently there.

Well, only a week for the Symposium, and still want to show you so much of Porto... Will I be able to?

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