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Title : A stroll around Tulshi Baug
link : A stroll around Tulshi Baug

A stroll around Tulshi Baug

[By Harshad Arole in Pune]

Those who have been to Pune must be wondering how I managed a stroll through Tulshi Baug and they are right. The place is in fact a cluster of extremely crowded lanes in the heart of the city brimming with shops and stalls selling all sorts of stuff that one can think of.

A shrine in the middle of the road

Still, my sketch stroll did happen as I was there on a Sunday morning when things were relatively calm and got to experience this location in a completely different light.

Tulshi Baug, translated as ‘Basil Garden’ is the area formed by the TulshiBaugwale Wada (traditional Maharashtrian residence similar to a mansion) which houses a temple complex. Lined along the walls of the temple precinct are the numerous shops which have transformed this place into a bazaar.

The main temple of Lord Ram was built during 1763-1795. There are several other temples in the the whole complex which was once spread over an area of more than one acre. The encroachment by the street vendors into the temple precincts has somewhat reduced the sanctity of the place. I could spot a small shrine right in the middle of the road outside the temple which I believe must have been a part of the original temple complex. It was around 9.00 in the morning and couple of vendors selling colourful dresses had already opened their shops next to the shrine.

Parts of the 'Wada' at the west end of the temple precinct

After sketching in and around the temple, I had decided to explore around a bit.
The entire area is filled with old buildings, some more than hundred years old, all tightly packed together creating a clutter which I find charming. So I put away my colours and went about sketching only with a marker pen in a continuous line scribbling technique that works quite well in quickly capturing such scenes.

Coming out of the temple from the south gate leads to Mahatma Phule Mandai which is a large fruits and vegetable retail market. It is housed in a Gothic style building constructed in 1882-86 by the British and was called Reay Market then. This beautiful structure with a central 80 ft tall octagonal tower and eight radial wings is a treat to sketch.

Mahatma Phule Mandai - The fruits and vegetable market

Densely packed clusters of old buildings

Century old residences with shops below

I was back at the temple after a nice hour and half of sketching which could have been possible only on a Sunday morning.

Back to the temple after my sketch walk

Tulshi Baug in this form was enjoyable to sketch but the fun of sketching the bustling bazaar in its other form beckons.

Thus Article A stroll around Tulshi Baug

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