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Title : Looking at Porto (III) - Clérigos tower and Carmo area
link : Looking at Porto (III) - Clérigos tower and Carmo area

Looking at Porto (III) - Clérigos tower and Carmo area

[By Paulo Mendes, Symposium Correspondent, in Porto] There are two monuments that stand out in Porto among many others, recognizable as true symbols of the city. They are for Porto as the Eiffel tower is for Rome or the Coliseum for Paris (I think I swiched something here...): One of them is the famous double-deck Luiz I iron bridge over the Douro, the other is the Clérigos Tower.

This tall and slim 75m high baroque silhouette can be seen from many points in the city, but if we look to the left from where we had stayed in the end of my previous post, it will be just there, at the top of the Clérigos street, just behind its imposing church front.

A closer view of this impressive structure built in the 18^thcentury by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni. 225 steps will take you to the top, and your efforts will be rewarded with breathtaking views. Spare a full day, pray for good weather, get an accordion sketchbook and you will make the 360º panoramic sketch of your life!

Very close to the tower is the famous Lello bookshop, always packed with visitors, while many others queue at the entrance. If you couldn't manage to visit its lovely interior this time, there is plenty to sketch in the elegant surrounding streets; Or you could just sketch the colorful diversity of people standing there.

Tower and bookshop are connected by a former market square turned into a shopping gallery with a small roof garden with olive trees: The Oliveiras garden became a popular place to rest and relax over the grass.

Another garden across the street, much bigger and older, is the Cordoaria garden, in front of which a picturesque set of old houses stands like books in an unorganized shelf. It's hard to resist to sketch them: This is the kind of thing that doesn't come out in tourist guides but gives to a city its original and unique character, and you will find elsewhere when getting around with a watchful eye. In Porto, your sketchbook will never be idle.

Just next to Lello bookshop is Gomes Teixeira square, commonly known as the “Lion's Square” due to the trio of winged lions in the central iron fountain. To the left are the side-by-side Carmo and Carmelitas baroque churches, both deserving a visit for their beautiful gilded interiors. This is my favorite square, for no other reason than being in my favorite part of the city, and most of my Porto journeys end up here. It's also a delight to sketch from any angle, something I can't get tired of.

In front of the sister churches is the terminus of two lines of the historical tram network, running in opposite directions: Line 18 will take you down to the riverside Massarelos area, ending in front of the highly recommendable Tramway Museum. From there, a nice 15min upstream walk can take you back to the Symposium place.

Line 22 goes down to Liberdade square, then up to Batalha and the busy Santa Catarina commercial street; And this is where I intend to take you in my next post.

Thus Article Looking at Porto (III) - Clérigos tower and Carmo area

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